October 2006: Newsletter
D is for Durbanville
Although it shouldn't be confused with its KwaZulu Natal quasi-namesake, Durbanville does have a few things in common with Durban. They are both named after former Governor of the Cape, Sir Benjamin D'Urban; they are both close to the sea; and they are both losing most of their agricultural heritage to the rapidly advancing concrete menace that in this case we can call "d'urbanisation"!
One of the main areas in which they differ however, is that Durban's climate is hot, sultry, and tropical, whereas Durbanville's is a cooler, breezy, maritime climate, much more suited to the growing of vitis vinifera.
Until the late 90's, the Durbanville ward consisted of only 4 farms, Altydgedacht, Bloemendal, Diemersdal and Meerendal. However, despite the encroachment of the concrete jungle, that number has now increased to 10, although the area covered has expanded exponentially, and now stretches as far as De Grendel in the west, and Havana Hills and Capaia near Philadelphia to the north. Other farms that have been established in the area are Nitida, Hillcrest and Durbanville Hills.
According to the most recent statistics, Cabernet is the most widely planted varietal, followed by Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Shiraz and Pinotage.
By far the largest producer is Durbanville Hills, crushing well over 5000 tons, compared with the 90 tons at Capaia for example.
Altydgedacht is a 5th generation family-owned farm, which produces mainly red wines, including the first of the only four versions of Barbera which are sold in SA. This is Italy's most widely planted variety.
Bloemendal has recently up-graded its facilities, including a tasting deck over the dam, a boules court, and a Zen Garden. Its Suider Terras Sauvignon Blanc has a firm following.
Capaia has only recently begun production, but the farm has already produced a highly-acclaimed Bordeaux-style blend, and two more accessible wines under the Blue Grove Hill label, being a Cabernet/Merlot blend and a Sauvignon Blanc.
De Grendel is the family home of Sir David Graaff and is to be found on the Plattekloof Road. They have recently scored something of a coup with the appointment of ex-Graham Beck winemaker, Charles Hopkins. Their maiden (04) Sauvignon Blanc was a big hit, and they are also producing Shiraz, Merlot, and a new Rosé this year.
Diemersdal has also been in the same family for several generations, and makes a good range of mainly red wines, plus some top quality Chardonnay. Their Matys red blend is great value, a consistently good performer.
As mentioned, Durbanville Hills is the area's largest producer. Martin Moore oversees the production of 140,000 cases of wine, split 50/50 red and white. Probably best known for their Sauvignon Blancs, of which they produce no less than three, their wines are restaurant favourites throughout the country.
Havana Hills, also in Philadelphia, produces a comprehensive range, with their flagship Du Plessis wines named after the farm's owner. The Du Plessis Shiraz has won Veritas Double Gold 5 years in a row! Lots of new varieties have been planted, and they even have a wine called The Italian Job in honour of that country's varietals which make up the blend.
Hillcrest wines are unknown to me at this stage, but they have two 4* wines in Platter, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Merlot/Cabernet blend. All their other wines receive 3* or 3½*.
Meerenda has been going through a period of regeneration with changes of ownership, winemaker and much attention being given to vineyard upgrades. Their Merlot was a Trophy Winner at this year's Old Mutual Show. Renowned chef David Higgs has his Hospitality Academy there.
Bernhard Veller has rapidly established a strong following for his Nitida wines. Again, Sauvignon Blanc takes centre stage, closely followed by the Cabernet, and the Calligraphy Bordeaux-blend.
So, there you have the 10 farms that make up the Durbanville Wine Route.
For any more information on these or any other wines, please don't hesitate to contact your nearest MANUKA FINE WINES branch.
Stephen Digby
Manuka @ Southeys
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